Saturday, July 15, 2006

Restaurant Review: The 9th Door, Denver

"More Than 9 Reasons to Visit the 9th Door"
The 9th Door is one of the many new restaurants in Denver that have plenty in common with its competition; a LoDo location, an impeccable interior with hardwoods and indirect lighting along with fabulous food. Its theme is what separates it from the others. The Spanish theme of "tapas" has been around for centuries and much like the idea of what is "American" the three owners who put the 9th Door together have provided a fantastic fusion of food, drinks and ambiance.
The "tapa", which translates to "cover", is part tradition and part purpose. A slice of meat and/or cheese was used to cover the wine glass for two reasons. One was to keep insects from falling into the wine glass but also to nourish the imbibing participant. It is also simply put, a snack between the larger meals of the day.
My friend Ann and I came into the 9th Door for happy hour on a Friday afternoon. As one of the first few customers it wasn't long before the bar area was teaming with business people and a hip thirty-something crowd. I love the "appetizer" style menu so much because of the immense variety it provides. The 9th Door puts them out quickly; it is advisable to keep the menu at hand so that you can visually pair your food with what you have ordered. We found it suitable to keep our bartender busy by ordering tapas two at a time, it gave us the opportunity to relax and not become overwhelmed with dishes.
Death, taxes and ordering calamari if its on the menu, those are the things I absolutely have to do. Calamares Friotos a la Romana ($7) was delivered fried to perfection with an aioli, spicy tomato and a customary tomato sauce. This was the only item not on the happy hour menu but worth every oily penny. Tostas Pistos ($2), or bruschetta with artichoe, garlic and olive oil is a staple product while drinking. It is also one of those items that many restaurants carry and therefore a graet factor for comparison. Aceitunas Rellenos ($2) are Spanish olives stuffed with tuna then flash-fried. Salty, fishy and fried…refer back to the calamari thing. Queso de Cabra Con Miel ($3) or fried goat cheese with honey needed no introduction when placed in front of us. No sooner was the plate motionless than these crispy little globes of satisfaction were satisfying my palette. Esparagos con Jamon ($3), grilled asparagus with Serrano ham and Cabrales cheese sauce briefly made me feel good about my eating habits because of the green vegetable in this dish. However I am a relatively firm believer in moderation…most of the time…except when I am out to dinner…or drinking. The cured ham and cheese sauce compliment each other so well; and cold cooked asparagus will rival any green spear dish served hot. Mejillones ($4), otherwise known as mussels, have become a restaurant tradition differing only in the broth it is served with, this one happened to be a tasti-licious spicy tomato style.
We all have accidents that can make our day unpleasant, but when other people take note of that and do something about it, that makes you feel special. When Ann dropped her knife the first employee that noticed it immediately, picked it up and replaced it. I overheard the chef talking to the food runners, he made mention that the plates going out needed the same quality every time. It's nice to know that the dedication to detail and enthusiasm in presentation exists. The bartenders are my favorite at the restaurants, they are the most well rounded and knowledgeable about the whole place in general. Their specialty is mine…liquor! They also have the ability to be a bit more informal than the wait staff; they "get away with" more pertaining to what they can say and do with the customers. The bartenders Sid and Jason know that and as I started to play the game they played right back. I am not there to test but to have a good honest conversation about the establishment, food and beverage in general and laugh about current events. Don't be fooled by the 5 gallon glass containers on the bar, that's not vodka or rum stewing in orange and apple slices, it's the Spanish original…Sangria! The white is such an incredibly refreshing change for those aren't familiar with it.
I know it's only a $3 dollar drink during happy hour, but when the bartender says, "I got one round for you", it can't help but put a bigger smile on your face. It ensures that I will be back often and will also tell my friends they should visit for an enjoyable and tasteful experience.

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